Bonus walk! We have two more
books by our favorite Portland walking author, Laura Foster, so today
we decided to take a walk from our new 'Portland Hill Walks' book
(obviously we're gluttons for punishment). Washington Park to us
means starting up near the zoo, but the takeoff point for this one is
24th & W Burnside so we headed off downtown. If you
decide to take this walk, be warned that parking in the area is
pretty scarce and many of the spaces have time limits. We finally
found a space on 20th and Katje parallel parked like a pro
(only two attempts!). Now, you're thinking that we parked on 20th,
the park entrance is on 24th...only four blocks, right?
No, for some reason the numbered streets have both an Avenue and a
Place, so each number you go up is actually two blocks. I went home
and Googled it, and it was .6 miles from where we parked to the
entrance at 24th.
We slogged – uphill, of course
- to the park entrance, and following Laura's excellent directions we
bypassed the stairs and headed up into Washington Park on the paved
walkway. The 'Hill Walks' book is filled with all sorts of
information, from tree identification to information on landmarks to
the history of the area. I'm not going to repeat it all, but if you
decide to take this walk I highly recommend buying the book – and
then highlighting the directions, which are sprinkled throughout the
narrative and might be easy to miss. I can't say enough good things
about these directions, though. Instead of “take this (unmarked)
trail to this park and continue through it (in an unspecified
direction) to the next trailhead” it says things like, “a faint
dirt pathway between a douglas fir and a bigleaf maple...” I can
find that! When you tell me there are four flagstone steps at the
top of the cobblestone walkway I'm reassured that we're on the right
path. I love this.
The walk comes up out of the park
into the Arlington Heights neighborhood, an interesting mix of big
old colonial, italianate and tudor houses interspersed with smaller,
humbler homes. Two blocks of house envy and we're back in Washington
Park, up a steep path and a bunch of stairs, and back out into
Arlington Heights. More houses, including a huge old stone house
with the largest lace leaf maples I've ever seen, and then we had a
decision to make. Should we take the optional one mile side trip,
described in the book as “heart thumping” or skip the detour and
head into the park? We gamely headed uphill for a fun game of “what
does this house tell us about the owner?”. The quirky house
numbers and...interestingly painted door of one house imply artsy,
avant garde homeowners, while the potted geraniums, trimmed hedges
and lacy curtains of another make me think 'grandparents'. Huge
plants in front of the door and all the blinds closed? Reclusive.
The gray ranch house with two doors in front and the entire yard done
in red gravel and stepping stones....yeah, I'm not sure about that
one. Definitely no house envy there, though.
We looped back down to the
beginning of our detour and picked up the walk heading into the
International Rose Test Gardens, one of my favorite parts of
Washington Park. This is where the book really earns its keep. It
tells us that the terraces the roses were planted on were developed
as homesites but the digging of the reservoirs at the base of the
hill destabilized the land, making the sites unsalable. The
developer sued the city; not only did he lose but the city eventually
got control of the land and added it to Washington Park. The test
gardens were established during WWI, when European gardeners were
afraid of losing their historic roses to the ravages of war and sent
cuttings overseas to safety. Oh, and the road leading into the park
was graded by elephants from the nearby zoo. How cool is that?
We descended through the park and
out into the King's Hill Historic District (more gorgeous houses),
then back up to the formal entrance to Washington Park. Somewhere
near this entrance is a time capsule, buried there in 1903 by
President Theodore Roosevelt. Unfortunately when they were going to
dig it up 100 years later they found that the exact location of the
capsule was never recorded. They looked through public records and
newspapers, called in scientists and psychics, but never did find it.
Back through the park, and we
began to descend the stairs we had bypassed on our way in. Two
hundred and fifty one steps later, we were back at the walk's
starting point (though still .6 miles away from the car). All total,
we walked 5.7 miles, including 259 steps up and 340 down. Not too
bad for a bonus walk!
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